Highland Rain Forest Jungle, Malaysia - June 2004

James P. Davis, Ph.D.

4. Highlands of Central Malaya - Cameron Highlands is a former vacation spot for the British colonialists, and now boasts world-class tea plantations (Boh and Cameron Valley producers are located there).  Tea tasting has the panache that wine tasting does in the U.S. and Europe.  The valleys nestled in the moutains provide an ideal climate for growing tea year round.  This is a mountainous region, with a jungle rain forest, and aboriginal Orang Asli tribal groups scattered in settlements in the forest, eking out a living in the jungles and trading bananas, bamboo shoots and indigenous plants and animals with other Malaysians.  The insects in this region are ENORMOUS, as are the snakes.

The jungles of this part of Malaysia are cooler than the lowland jungles of Taman Negara (a national  jungle nature preserve) or of Sabah and Sarawak (the Malaysian states on the island of Borneo, home to tribes who were once headhunters).  The foliage in the highlands is not as dense (as I remember it), but the terrain is more treacherous because it is mountainous.  I got pretty clumsy on a hike, slipped and almost went over Robinson Falls on my ass.  No pictures to show of that episode, as I was scared shitless; but I kept my cool and didn't drop my camera into the water.

A boma, or blind, perhaps built for sleeping or relaxing.  Home away from home, large enough for about 4 sleeping bags, I reckon.  It's not Orang Asli construction, as it is open and built up off the ground.  Perhaps built by the Malaysian government? At first, I think it might have been to accommodate prayers.  Malay men have many such places away from Mosques, on routes of travel, so that they can have proper observance during the five times a day when prayers are offered--in which case I might not be able to enter (not being Muslim).  I was told by my Muslim host and companion that this was not the case.

What's matsale white-boy up to now?  How about "trying not to get eaten alive" by "critters" and "crawlies" almost as big as he is? Yeah, that sounds about right....

A ridge overlook, with cloud pockets that cling to the mountain sides like a second skin.

Deep and dense foliage, giant ferns, very primeval looking.  Jurassic Park, anyone?

  Looking up at the climb ahead, a path of switchbacks that wind up over the top of the mountain and down into the valley on the other side.  Are we there yet?

Through the jungle foliage, an Orang Asli settlement (Bahasa Melayu for "original man").  The Malaysian government, like the U.S. government in the past, has attempted relocation settlement of the "native population". But, in the end, they prefer to live in the traditional manner, close to the land (so it appears).

Orang Asli thatch rooftops peering over the wild banana trees.

Bird's nests for sale...cash only.  They're a delicacy, I'm told. I've eaten the Chinese version of Bird's Nest Soup, years ago, but I wouldn't know how to prepare it.

Rain and fog create an eerie collection of phantasmal shapes out of the trees.

After the rains, a clearing in the weather.  A sublime moment.  Please ignore the scowl on my face.  I am reasonably soaked with sweat, I am tired from not sleeping too well for a couple of days and I have what appears to be "jungle rot" on my right foot.  "I hope they won't have to amputate" I think to myself....

Civilization, new roads...and deforestation.  Progress?  At what price?

Loop: Kuala Lumpur -> of get off here....